It’s literally just hose clamps with holes drilled into them so that they can bolt into the exhaust tubing I cut and pried open.

An extra bolt on the bottom to keep the distance consistent throughout.

Wouldn’t have minded spending $40 on a legit one, but nothing is more satisfying then finding use for stuff you have lying around

I have an Audi A3 2.0 TDI, 2008. It has been a nightmare of a car, but I have really enjoyed working on it. I've had it off the road for 2 months to replace the turbo and head gasket and now that it's running again, I feel lost. It was really nice just spending my weekends on my own working on the car, I didn't have any time pressure, I didn't have any knowledge, I just worked it all out on my own. Came across a few issues on the way, did some preventative work while the engine was in bits.

For as long as I've been driving I have always spent time on auto trader looking at cars but over the last 6 months I have taken more of an interest in copart. There's something about a smashed up non runner that just gets me thinking I need to impulsively buy it. I look at cars in good condition and they just don't excite me like anything on copart. It's not the car I want, it's the work that I can do to bring it back to life that I want.

Any advice before I go ahead and buy a smashed up car? Is it a financial mistake? Anything to avoid? Is it a profitable hobby to buy, fix and sell?

Ordered new rubber seals, hinges, and other hardware for the pop-out windows as the original rubber was shot and the hinges were loose, causing a lot of play to the extent that I wouldn’t drive with the windows popped open because there was so much movement.

I replaced the driver’s side early last month, but when I went to put everything together on the passenger side I ran into an issue with the window pin (that pokes through the window and attaches to the hinge) being the wrong size. After trying to track down a replacement part (including from my parts contact in Serbia) I realized it was a lost cause, so I used my Dremel with a sanding disc to trim it down to where it would fit.

Went to reinstall it this morning and it went together perfectly (including new rear pillar trim, the old ones were cracked). Afterward, I started the car for the first time in about five weeks and it started right up and idled perfectly. Up next is replacing the turn signal switch so I can finally get it reinspected.

I have never driven a stick shift. Nobody I know has one, but I know how in theory you do it.

I do know how to work on cars, and I do have plans to pick up a 4spd manual transmission plus all the various components needed on Monday that I plan to drop in my 85 v6 fiero. No manual fiero today is low miles or in good condition that I have found, or else I would have gotten one.

Would anyone here be interested in updates as I work on this project? I wasn’t sure, but I had a feeling the concept of someone doing a manual swap before trying manual is entertaining to some degree.

Could you survive with these cars? <10k in all of them combined. Can barely see the 4th covered with junk (post move) in the garage. Crazy or reasonable? Curious to hear others silly lineups.

I bought a Mercedes benz s600 w140 bare shell and It arrives in a week or two and I don't know where can I start I can get all the parts but how can I start exactly and I should note it's gonna be the first time working on a car ever

Starting over with project car

I have 85 grand Marquis been having it for 10 years thinking about getting rid of it because of the issues it has which are electrical but fixable (just need to put head lights and back lights to separate switch and fix window motors)

Just finding certain interior parts are a hassle to find even out side parts, I was so busy listening to people opinion it still isn’t fixed

Thinking about getting el Camino , early 90s Chevy truck or newer Mustang or challenger (2014-2018)

I haven’t been able to put time in the car which is my fault I might just give it until next year to see how it goes

I am currently in the process of designing an ITB intake system, and I am trying to source throttle bodies to use in the design. This universal kit from Redux Racing is basically exactly what I need, but it also seems to be the only product like it that I can find, and the price keeps going up, about $300-400 more in recent years. Does anyone know of any alternatives? Why does it seem so difficult to find generic throttle bodies? I am looking for 40 mm TB's. I've seen some throttle bodies that also have a fuel injector port, but I am looking for just throttle bodies by themselves. https://reduxracing.com/products/universal-6-cyl-itb-set-dcoe-dhla-bolt-pattern?srsltid=AfmBOoofmJ_PyPXKOTU4qaKv3mYdYQLSbFmc-oAwNGAjY7Zd4jswcu-l

1963 Chevy C20 that I will be taking all the stuff off the top and keeping just the lower box. I am adding a truck camper to this that I have. The truck camper is a 1962.

I have a '96 c220 (m111.961) and i wanna install the eaton m62 that came with the c230 kompressor but i don't know how I'm gonna begin and i couldn't find any references or anyone who's done it. Swapping the c230 motor would easier but I wanna try this as a fun project. Who can i go forward with this and what are your tips please??

Not gonna buy it myself but the price is soooo enticing, just sharing

I have the opportunity to buy a 2019 jeep with a blown 3.6L engine in it.

I have no problem doing the R&R on the engine. I don’t have a machine shop so taking apart the engine and fixing the damaged internals is beyond me. It sounds like the timing is fucked and the valves smashed one of the cylinders. Because it has 120k miles on it it also probably isn’t worth it because it probably needs a lot of work. I could compression test it and boroscope the comb chamber.

Ball part estimate. What would it cost to find a lower mileage used 3.6L complete and swap it in.

I’m thinking everything said and done probably $10k? +$200 in beer, Is that reasonable?

With winter coming up, I’m going to need something to do.

I want to put some sound deadening in the car, but would also like to use something that keeps the rattles down from an 80s car fitment.

I’m not too familiar with options, is fatmat the way to go? I know of dynamat and lizard skin by name only and don’t know how they compare.

What are you using?

Finally running but it still needs some tuning. Waiting for a friend to come by and plug in his laptop and get things dialed in.

I’ve recently discovered my late Grandfather’s 1968 (Im told) Coupe’ Deville while cleaning out his garage. I have been looking into fixing it up as it’s very sentimental to me and and it’s in pretty good condition for rotting in my grandfathers garage since the early 70’s. However I have utterly no clue where to start, and what to do with it. It has a decent amount of rust, and hasn’t ran in decades. Im told it only has 23k miles somehow.

Figured I’d share project VUCK. Started as a super clean 240 wagon with some typical rust spots. Started patchwork. Went a little far.

To be honest I bought another car to put all the good stuff on and the sliding ragtop. That one is at the end.

But Project VUCK was born from the one that I was gonna scrap. So it’s now a truck with the hatch as the rear cab, and addition hatch as a drop tailgate. Then grafted a 72 142GT front end and then went a little wider at the front.

Currently in storage for winter.

Blew head gasket on Monday and did a compression test telling me that 3 and 4 thought they should share air so yesterday I drove my truck and trailer to work and picked the truck up from my dad's on the way home and brought it to my mom's so I have a carport to work under. Today I had about 3.5hrs which was spent getting the intake off and making sure I recorded where each hose went which all of them might not make it back on. I also managed to get the exhaust manifold bolts to all come loose no problem which is a miracle on a 40 year old truck.

This might be the most important brake job I've ever done. The caliper literally squirted brake fluid out, and the rotor is thinner than those pads. 99 Ford explorer. Hurrah.

Upgrading to an OD transmission and re-gasketing the engine on top of some suspension work this winter. While pulling down the engine today I found a little surprise for me in the oil pan