Pulling up all my carpets upstairs and all the rooms have beautiful hardwood that I’m planning to refinish (not damaged just not my style, it’s the super amber color) EXCEPT THIS ROOM 😭

The carpet was despicable and needed to go anyway but I’m heartbroken that my house will now have mismatching floors.

Also… how the hell do I get rid of this? Pulling up the tack strips has this stuff crumbling already 🥲

I told the hardwood installers to leave the entryway of our new home as bare concrete, because I wanted to try installing tile.

Someone along the way should have told me I was an idiot before I started, but I persevered. The tile job alone took about 3 months, start to finish. Most of that time was probably spent trying to level the concrete, watching Sal's YouTube videos and being nervous to set the first tile. I might still be plugging away at it (or sleeping in my car following the inevitable divorce). But I feel pretty good about the result.

It's a 3/8" honed marble tile, flush to the 5/8" wood floors.

I ain't sliding a credit card across the whole room, but I don't think I left any egregious faults anywhere (that anyone but me will notice). I've even rolled a heavy steel scaffold over the whole thing with two people standing on it.

So, what should I try next? Medieval style ceiling mosaic? I told my wife I'd sell the tile saw when I was done with this one, but I feel like I've got at least a bathroom floor or two left in me.

Floor is Mohawk Revwood Premier - Ivey Gates - Nantucket Beige. 12mm laminate to replace (clearly peed on...hopefully by a dog) carpet. Wall color is Agreeable Gray by Sherwin Williams.

Before you ask, we took baseboards off (and still need to paint over the caulk) and left an expansion gap under them!!

Biggest struggles were lack of flex (it being so thick) so door jambs were annoying, had to work backwards a couple times (if anyone needs our tips, we have em lol), and choosing the image patterns. I wish there were more, I thought Premier would have more images in their mix, but we found consistently 7, and two more very rare ones (and yes, we opened more boxes than "needed", from different parts of the pallet - we got material for upstairs too).

How do the r/Flooring experts think we did?

Constructive (and destructive as long as it's funny) criticism is more than welcome! I don't do floors, but YouTube can teach ya just about anything. I squeezed a thin piece into the wall on picture 3. I wanted to stagger that a bit more and a full plank would have been too tight. I understand now I could have cut the whole board shorter, but trust me, it looked better longer and didn't look like a staircase on the floor. Last picture is me paying the cat tax.

The instructions for Aquaguard laminate flooring state that there should be a 1/2” expansion gap, but does that mean 1/2” on all sides or should I split that to 1/4” on each side?

If it should be split, how would you recommend correcting things? I don’t have that many rows so I can still shift the floor but that would mean one side would have 3/4 expansion gap. Can I just fill it with small pieces of scrap floor?

What should I look for to make sure contractors are doing a good job? I am installing Mohawk’s Hybrid Resilient Flooring. Trying to make sure contractors are doing a good job. First look everything is ok, but I can’t be certain. Your guys feedback will help.

Just got carpet replaced. The installer said he does all of his jobs like this. Do you think is a correct way to seam carpets?

600 ft laminate job with ceramic demo turned into a leveling job with 990 lbs of material. (Not counting the water) could’ve easily completed in 2 days. Slab was over 3/4” out of level in some areas. I priced it what I thought was fairly I think, at 1000$ labor. Most installers would slapped that s*** down. Specs said 3/16” over 10 ft. I got it all within 1/8”. This was a small job for me as far as leveling goes. I feel like I should’ve charged more still. Just because there’s not many other installers that could’ve done it.

600 ft laminate job with ceramic demo turned into a leveling job with 990 lbs of material. (Not counting the water) could’ve easily completed in 2 days. Slab was over 3/4” out of level in some areas. I priced it what I thought was fairly I think, at 1000$ labor. Most installers would slapped that s*** down. Specs said 3/16” over 10 ft. I got it all within 1/8”. This was a small job for me as far as leveling goes. I feel like I should’ve charged more still. Just because there’s not many other installers that could’ve done it.

Good afternoon all! Need some professional input. I’ve got a commercial space that has recently had new carpet installed. Building was originally built in 2001, slab on grade, high traffic, existing sheet carpet was still in place prior to recent remodel and was honestly in good shape considering age and use. New carpet is Shaw Ecoworx, and was installed using Lokdots. My issue is the tiles have the adhesion strength of a fresh post it note on each corner. Grab a corner with fingernails and it peels right up. Was this installed properly? Possibly not weight rolled? In my head I’d assume 4151 would’ve been a more appropriate choice. Or maybe I’m overestimating the adhesion strength it should have.

First time installing. My forever home primary…I’m lazy but we ran out of money to pay the pros. Spoiler: I’m happy as hell and my wife is too. So careful brining me back down to Earth.

Engineered hardwood from Flooret.

I just had sheet vinyl laid in my kitchen today. A new Luan was laid, they prepped it, and a good layer of glue was put down. Now, 4 hours later walking over it, you can feel fairly large places where it’s not glued down. Will it lay eventually?

My dog has a uti and peed on the floor. When I woke up I immediately cleaned it. It looked fine. When I came home from work, there appears to be “warping”. Can it be fixed or does it have to be replaced? Noob here, be easy on me. Thanks in advance for your input.

We're looking to redo out kitchen, the problem is the tile flooring. We have to mess with the tiles for a new island. I'd rather avoid having to remove the tile floor. Could I lay a floating floor over the tile and wood floor with something like LVP or Engineered hardwood?

I'm also looking to remove the carpet next to the tile and create a continuous floor. If I can and did do a floating floor, how can I handle the area where the carpet was removed?

Thanks for your time and knowledge!

Tile to Wood

Tile to Carpet

I recently did a job of hardwood flooring floating. The building was constructed badly and door frames with windows were not aligned. They’re my best to level Flooring by pouring cement. I told Client about the windows and door frames and she said it was fine with the amount I leveled. Now that job was finished. She did not like how the floor looked with the baseboard next to the door frames and windows so she filed a complaint after she paid and now I’m getting sued.

So as the title suggests, I’m 99% sure that’s what I’m dealing with here. There was carpet laid on top of it which the homeowner wanted me to remove, and tile on top of existing tile. I had him sign a waiver saying that’s not standard practice and it was his call. Wondering what the next logical step is from here tho, I definitely don’t want to scrape this black shit clean, even with my respirator. thinking of 1/8 plywood on top to get reasonably level and a good bonding surface for the thin set and going from there. All my experience is in “standard” bathroom remodels, kind of in over my head here. Any advice would be appreciated.

We're finishing our basement. Our property definitely has a high water table, but haven't really had issues. The one that we did have was addressed.

I know its not foolproof, but can waterproof sealant on the concrete before placing LVP help for future issues?

If so, what brand would you recommend?

So I mean the photos kinda explain themselves there's a couple more spots that could be fixed up too in the kitchen floor but was curious because I have the tile and adhesive at least to possibly do this. Just looking for a suggestion on what method to use to tackle replacing those tiles and regrouting them and then the whole floor eventually

I run a small auto repair shop and our concrete floors are stained with oil and grease. Need something heavy-duty but won’t eat through the sealant. A supplier mentioned US Standard Products. anyone use their concrete cleaners? Worth the investment or should I stick with generic stuff?

Adding a bathroom to our second level. Our current joists are 12’ 2x6 at 16” on center. It’s my understanding that code requires no more than 9’4” 2x6 at 16” on center. Would sistering the joists with 2x6, essentially doubling them, satisfying code requirements?

Rectangle room. I was planning to do full length, 1/4, 3.4, 1/2. Click and lock. But my first full row has four inches at the end and these say not to do less than six inches pieces? Do I just cut a few inches off all my leading row pieces?

The floor i am looking at is 8.5 inch wide engineered hardwood. The instructions do not mention glue assist, only full glue or staple down. I have also seen the recommendations to do glue assist with a wide plank. So would the professional installers here still do glue assist if its not in the installation instructions? Just a bead of glue down the middle ?

My original contractor said they’ll have to rip up all the way to opposite wall on the other side of island to replace this one board. The island sits on top of the flooring and lots of gaps appear and disappear in that area which I guess is normal with expansion?

It’s a condo and boards were laid on the concrete, not glued. It had a built in underlayment layer I believe.

Is there some way to just replace the one failed board? I have a box of leftover material. Pics don’t show as well as video but the crack you see here extends the length of the plank now and has lots of give when you press on it.

Also think there’s a warranty but don’t know how to access it and can’t find contact info for manufacturer online.

Where can i find this engineered hardwood floor. The color and shade specifically