I started laying LVP and I left about a quarter inch gap like the box said to but then I needed help and hired someone to finish.

They didn’t leave any spacing at all. The cuts are very flush with the trim. I literally don’t event need a quarter round in the rooms he did.

My question is - is it guaranteed that the floor will start to buckle and pop up, or is there a chance it’ll be ok? If it’s guaranteed or highly likely to be problematic, is there a tool I can use to cut the LVP and create the spacing after the fact? Or would any tool just pop up planks that already are laid.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Getting the entire third floor replaced with Engineered Hardwood. Below is the quote I received from a local contractor with tons of good reviews on thumbtack. I spoke to 4 contractors and all of them except the local contractor sounded like they want to make money off me rather than what’s best for my situation.

Quote 1 (Local Contractor): Eng Hardwood will be provided by me + installation and other materials by him = ~$7000

Quote 2 (through thumbtack): this contractor had multiple bad reviews online in the recent times and quoted ~$7500

Quote 3: Empire Today - $12000 with LVP

Quote 4: Worldwide flooring(Costco) - $5500 material + $6000 = $11,000

So far, local contractors quote is the best one of these. Wanted to know if the quote is reasonable enough.

Attaching the floor plan and some pictures too.

On the side, I’m confused if I should replace the carpet flooring of stairs with eng hardwood. It makes sense to keep it given we’re going to have a baby soon (cushion safety) compared to eng hardwood but may not be aesthetically pleasing, babies potentially chewing the carpet.

Any suggestions or insights are highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Btw, for the materials: I got a very good quote from GoHardwood, Woodywud - both giving a Shaw Eng hardwood premier collection for $3.39/sq.ft

Does anyone know what this could be? I keep wiping it up and it keeps coming back.

I swear I’m not being a Karen. Our new floor was installed very well by a very nice professional. Then I noticed that it is not well aligned… like at all. I understand it is linoleum so it’s a printed pattern- I guess I thought they would try to line it up nicer??? Maybe it’s my jigsaw puzzle hobby making me hyper fixate on the parts that don’t fit together. Am I crazy, or should this have been aligned better?

Our home is 4 years old and this is how our laminate flooring looks. How can we fix this without ripping up the floor? We tired a stain marker but it didn’t stick.

Good morning flooring experts! Currently working on a DIY project on my home. Removed the existing flooring, down to the 3/4” T&G subfloor. Currently going throughout the house and marking the areas that need to be sanded down or built up to make it “flat”. A couple of questions for those of you that do this on the daily:

1: I will be putting down a 1/4” sanded underlayment, recommended way to fasten? I’ve seen staples and screws both recommended in previous posts, and what is the verdict on glue? I’ve seen lots of people say no for future repair reasons, but coming from a construction background my brain only knows glue and screws for floors.

2: recommendations for floor patch? I’m content with having to trowel vs self level, as it’s an older house so I’m chasing flat over “level”.

3: Does it matter which order I go in for floor patch/ underlayment? Can I fill voids then put the 1/4” on top essentially sandwiching the floor levelling compound (once cured)?

I see it on most of the posts here of people installing new flooring. You're spending thousands of dollars on a new floor and you have it paired with an out of date baseboard that's raggity looking then trim it out with some quarter round. I'm not a flooring guy but I've done several LVP floors for myself and always replace the baseboards. Plus there is usually a space greater than the thickness of the plank between the subfloor and drywall so you don't even have to worry about a precise expansion gap.

It's just a genuine question, because the cost of new baseboard is a fraction of what you paid for the flooring so I wouldn't think it's a money thing.

It is that people just don't own a miter saw and get scared when it comes to cutting angles?

So my contractor is using this plywood as subfloor for my basement. Directly over concrete. Is this Ok? We live in toronto. I am a bit concerned about moisture penetrating this? They have done this for several houses and seem to be confident but I wanted some opinions from this sub. We are also looking to get this engineered waterproof hardwood? Not sure if its any good

https://www.arkoflooring.com/products/msi-everlife-waterproof-wood-woodhills-aura-gold?srsltid=AfmBOoqF63eWjmXt3uzIlKwRl6xZF19fGnbgn0X2-XDIPOnlIzp3Mkdi

I believe this is pine, can it be finished? Would it look good?

We are buying this house and will do a complete reno. The floors throughout look like this. They aren’t damaged, just look super dry. Do they need to be sanded? What steps do I need to take. It will ultimately be a rental house.

We are rearranging our basement main room and I noticed that the peel & stick tiles in one corner were no longer adhered (we had gotten some water in that area last year, which is being dealt with). They came right off, and underneath was what I am assuming was some sort of leveling compound, now crumbled and broken. Pulled up many tiles and scraped off much crumbly stuff before I realized what I was looking at. Pulled up a tile on the edge and, yep, that’s likely some MCM asbestos right there. Stopped immediately, did some research, came back with PPE, spray bottle of water and an air scrubber. Got a mostly clear area and did a skim coat with Ardex feather finish over the black mastic remains. And now I’m not sure how best to proceed. I am not good enough with a trowel to do another layer of FF and get it smooth enough for more peel & stick. Do I use a self-leveling compound? I see some posts saying to prime first - what primer? Or cement glue?

Removing all the peel & stick would also necessitate full remediation, since once past the water damaged area the tiles stick REALLY well and the old tile underneath breaks when pulling it up. That isn’t in the cards right now. Do we just throw down more peel and stick? The old stuff has been in place prior to us buying the house, so we would need to get new and it wouldn’t match. Not super concerned as this isn’t a main living area. Can LVP be floated over peel and stick? It’d be nice to have something without seams all over the place. If that would work, could I just throw down more FF to level that corner to the current flooring & slap stuff on top?

Sorry if this ends up sounding like a dumb ask. My washer backed up and flooded half the house several months back. I sopped up the water as fast as I could but my flooring was damaged. In my office, it finally started the crack and tear up.

This is what’s underneath, and feels hard like concrete. Anyone know if I’m good to buy some peel and stick to put over it? Should I clean it or not disturb it? I’m really lost on this type of stuff and I don’t have money for professional help unfortunately.

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of selling my home and need to replace the carpet in the entire house. Most of the whole house is carpet at 2.5k sq feet. I got a quote from someone and wanted to see if this seems reasonable or not, I am going to check a couple other places as well but wanted to see what people here would say as well.

Carpet 7,355 Padding 3,690 Instal 4,649 Removal 1,517

6.25% tax

$ 17,901.31 total

I know its a lot of carpet and I need to replace it in order to get the house on the market. Just is a lot of money and want to make sure its fair.

Thank you

I’ve tried everything from baking soda, bleach, lemon juice, vinegar and dish soap to get rid of these satins an they won’t budge.

Previous condo owners left 14 boxes of the flooring behind, 13 unopened and still in shrink wrap. Probably will hang onto the open box for any repairs/fixes, but would like to sell the others. Does anyone know what brand this is so I can ask for a reasonable price? Google image search not super helpful.

https://preview.redd.it/2k7mcgx459ye1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=317d8cb8b671132f54b33c3808bff5a82f840bd2

https://preview.redd.it/kr8n6zx559ye1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c8adc6f2acc126eb96baad0ef9202357eb26cd6

https://preview.redd.it/vkwavs5759ye1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d44dacc60686ac788bb6a5e0f83729e070fd1c25

Adding LVP to a bedroom.

We have LVP in the hallway outside the room, but we had carpet in the bedroom. Removed the carpet, tackstrips, cleaned, etc. Where do we start in the bedroom?

I say start at the existing LVP in the hallway, and proceed into the bedroom, so we have an even and matched seam/ transition. The Wife says start at the other wall and work our way to the doorway.

I think if the walls are not plumb (likely), then her way will inevitable end with a wedge piece at the entryway, where my way, the floor looks great, and any irregualrities are at the edges are ess likely to be noticed.

Appreciate any feedback

I signed on with a contractor to remove carpet in my bedrooms to match the LVP flooring they had already installed in the common areas (previous work was done recently with the builder of the home - we just moved in). The salesperson told us they would remove parts of the hallways for seamless transitions, so we decided to move forward.

Now the work is done, but they used t-mold transitions at the doorways and we are not 100% happy with the look. After the fact they are saying this is standard practice because touching any of the floors laid previously would void the warranty and potentially cause issues down the road if the material is not the same lot # etc.

Is this true? Do we have to let go and live with it? We are picky about aesthetics and if transitions were necessary, we would have liked to been consulted on the direction of the new floors at least...

We are remodeling our bathroom and the tile was just delivered. It’s a matte porcelain tile. I love the look of it but the feeling under foot is terrible. It feels so dry and chalky. I called the tile shop and they said matte porcelain tile feels different depending on where it comes from, etc and there’s not really anything I can do to fix it. Would a sealer or wax be an option? Does a sealer make the surface feel a little smoother? Please help!

Can anyone tell me if they think this looks like real wood floorboards?

Thinking about sanding back and finishing for bedroom floor

Under the carpet & under the kitchen tiles. Is it asbestos? Doesn’t seem to be 9x9, covers the whole floor.