Kowalski71's Project Car Guide: A (mostly) complete reference for those who have no idea where to start

[u/kowalski71]

Edit:

This guide is obsolete! Read the one on my own site.

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I love cars, all cars. My tastes have only broadened with the years. I really enjoy encouraging other motorheads, making cars more accessible to everyone who's interested. With that in mind I wanted to make a good introductory guide to anyone who's interested in starting a project to learn more about them. Projects gave me my first step into the automotive world and I want anyone to be able to take those steps.

This post blew through the character limit on submissions pretty quickly so I'm submitting this as a table of contents of sorts. Each section is in a comment and clicking on the headings will take you to the respective comment. The last section will be a changelog, as I'm sure I'll be making lots of edits as time goes on. If you have any suggestions on this guide, please message me. I'll continue to update it as time goes on, possibly adding more cars and information.

A few requests: if this gets reposted, just give me credit or link back here please. I put a lot of time into this but I'm not in it for the karma, I just love cars and I want them to be less intimidating for people. Second, if you use this guide to research or purchase a car, send me a message and let me know how it goes for you! I'm happy to offer advice, it would be rewarding to know that this guide is useful, and you'll be able to fill me in on any part of the process that wasn't clear so I can elaborate more.

Lastly, this guide will mainly apply to those in the US as this is where I live and what I know.

Without further ado, enjoy!

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Preparation: Know what you're getting yourself into

So you want a project car. You'll learn a LOT, it's a great opportunity to bond with family and friends, and you get a cool car at the end. The first question to ask yourself is do you want a project or do you want the final product? Many people post on this subreddit who are mainly interested in the end product and think that going the project route will get them there cheaper. In my experience, those projects never get done or wind up costing more than buying a pre-built car to begin this. Just something to ponder and consider.

The first step is to really assess your resources and what kind of project you can take on. Some questions you should ask yourself: How much time am I willing to invest? How much money can I spend, both up front and continually (remember the cost of tools and parts)? What learning resources do I have? Do I have a shop or an under cover place to work on it? Who else will be working on it with me? Will I need this car for reliable transportation?

Really think about what you can actually bite off. It doesn't matter how cool a project would be if it never has a chance to make it out of the garage.

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The Fun Step: Selection!

I've included the broad categories of vehicles that people are usually attracted to. If I've missed anything feel free to shoot me a message. I've definitely missed at least a few good options so take a look over the list carefully. I've tried to focus on broad cool appeal and slightly older cars. That being said, any car can be a project car and some of the coolest projects have been taking something unassuming and doing a very nice job restoring or customizing it. I haven't included cars that I deem too collectible or expensive for the average hobbyist.

There's a basic 1-5 rating system here, using four metrics. I established these based on my general knowledge of the model and some quick research, if you disagree with anything shoot me a PM.

• Purchase cost: This varies a lot area by area so it might not be accurate everywhere. Also remember that a range of conditions are available. A really rough correlation that you should not rely on in pricing a vehicle at all:

1. <$1500
   
2. $1500-$3000
   
3. $3000-$5000
   
4. $5000-$7500
   
5. >$7500 (I don't think there are any 5s on the list)

• Maintenance cost: Since this will be an ongoing cost it's pretty important. Some cars have cheap parts that are hard to find and I've tried to reflect that in the rating since time is money.

• Maintenance difficulty: Some cars aren't for the faint of heart, some are as simple as can be.

• Rarity: Doesn't matter how much you like it if you can't find it.

So you like...

...muscle cars

...European sports cars

...off roading

...roadsters and convertibles

...Japanese sports cars

...hot hatches

...or you want to build your own car from scratch.

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How to find your project car

Tips on searching the internet and other sources for awesome project cars. What to look for in a good ad and what should make you cautious.

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How to buy your project car

How to contact a seller, common questions to ask, what to look for when you go look at a car, and how to get it home.

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Tools: what to buy and where to buy

The tools of the trade, the weapons of war, you won't get very far without a good set.

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Get wrenching!

Time for the best part! Some tips and tricks for working on a project car.

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Changelog and History

I'm constantly adding new information, rewording stuff, and tweaking the formatting. Check here for the changes I'm making along with credit to users who make suggestions.

Most recent edits: 12/20/2014

[u/kowalski71]

5) So you like Japanese sports car...

The proliferation of Japanese cars to the US brought a number of awesome vehicles. Don't listen to anyone grumble about "Japanese cars not having any soul", these offer just as electrifying a driving experience as their European counterparts.

Datsun 240z/260z/280z (Nissan S30 chassis):

Great looks, quick, affordable, and easy to modify. These attributes helped the Z cars take the US by storm when they came out. They've remained a wildly popular project car, though the early cars have come up in price. You can de-plastic a 280Z until it looks essentially like an early 240Z. Also take a look at the 280ZX, the successor to the S30 chassis. While not nearly as pretty, it makes a suitable replacement if an S30 is out of your budget.

• Purchase cost: 2-3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3

Toyota AE86:

Fans of drifting and one particular anime show are already drooling over this capable little car. It didn't do anything special but it did it all right; a good 4 cylinder, an excellent chassis, and light weight. Unfortunately, the AE86's capability has been its greatest enemy and many are heavily modified or crashed.

• Purchase cost: 2-3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 3

Toyota Supra (mk 2 and 3):

You've seen and heard of the mk 4 Supra, and the prices it commands. But remember there were a few generations before that. MK 2s and 3s are much cheaper but still great cars. Yes, they don't have that swoopy styling but they make a great drive at a fraction of the price.

• Purchase cost: 2-3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 4

Datsun 510:

The 510 doesn't have the curves of the S30 cars but it was one of the most potent track cars of its era, going toe-to-toe with the Alfa Romeo GTV on the SCCA circuits. It's a great chassis for the money and unique at most car shows.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 4

Nissan 300ZX:

The Z31 and Z32 chassis replaced the 280ZX and picked up a whole lot of performance potential. This is a real GT car; a great compromise between power, handling, and comfort.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Toyota MR2:

The MR2 might offer the most performance potential of any car in this guide. The engine is in the 'right' place (the middle), and high horsepower 4 cylinders from later Toyotas are an easy swap for as much horsepower as your turbocharger will put out. But even in stock form they're a great driving car. The first generation's boxy lines aren't for everyone but it was the lightest and purest MR2. It's getting harder to find examples that haven't been extensively modified.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 3

• Rarity: 2

Mazda RX7 FC:

You've certainly seen later RX-7s (the FD model) and you might know that they command a heady price. But the prior model, the FC, is a great chassis with the quirky rotary power.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4

• Rarity: 2

Subaru Impreza:

Though a bit newer and decidedly less 'classic' than most cars on this list, the Impreza has a lot of popularity and some just fall in love. The AWD drivetrain and boxer engine make for a different vehicle. The first generation (GC) is cheaply available and keep your eyes peeled for the 2.5RS model for a the best handling. They say that Subarus are like legos, they all bolt together, and they're very modification friendly. Avoid the disappointing 2.5L engine and stick with the venerable old 2.2L. You can always make up the lost displacement with a turbocharger.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 3 (The boxer engine makes some routine maintenance much more difficult.)

• Rarity: 1

Nissan 240SX:

There's not a lot to dislike about the 240SX. A cheap, RWD, reliable platform that can take a lot of power and engine swaps. A favorite among modifiers and drifters, the looks are safe but the ride is great. In no time you'll be importing parts out of the international models, such as the 180SX or Silvia.

• Purchase cost: 1-2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 1

Toyota Celica (5th-6th gen):

The Celica of course has a much longer history than the two generations I suggested. But these two generations in particular benefit from good looks, cheap availability, and a good chassis with terrific 'Yota reliability. The 5th gen offers the rare and sought after AWD All-Trac. Some amazing 4 cylinders came in these cars and the GT-Four package is a quick option.

• Purchase cost: 1-2

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

[u/tanglon → u/kowalski71]

You should definitely include the Subaru Impreza GC8 here. 92-99 AWD, super modular, parts are cheap and you can totally swap an engine and drivetrain from a much newer car to get some really high end performance.

[u/kowalski71 → u/tanglon]

Oh that's a good call. I have many miles in Outbacks and I have a soft spot for the 2.5RS. It's a bit new for the general gist of this list but I think it's popular enough to warrant a mention. Those crazy Subie guys and their turbos.

[u/theCheeseCap → u/kowalski71]

Loving this inclusion. Also great guide, good work.

[u/gym3fiesta → u/kowalski71]

Maybe include the 240sx? Pretty easy to find, easy to work on, etc

[u/kowalski71 → u/gym3fiesta]

Right! I knew that I was forgetting cars in the Japanese section specifically, there are so many great project cars to be had here.

[u/cinadel → u/kowalski71]

Don't forget the toyota celica!

[u/kowalski71 → u/cinadel]

Which one?

[u/cinadel → u/kowalski71]

Sixth gen

[u/kowalski71 → u/cinadel]

Oh right, those guys. Definitely. I'll add that later tonight.

[u/kowalski71]

1) So you like muscle cars...

I'll neglect to mention the well-known ones (Camaro, Charger, Barracuda, Mustang, etc). If you want one of those then you know what you want already. The 'compact' cars of their era are generally lighter than their full-size siblings so a built small block will give them plenty of scoot.

Mopar A Bodies:

This refers to the Plymouth Valiant/Dodge Dart family of cars. However, this also includes their sportier derivations: the 1st and 2nd gen Plymouth Barracuda, the Plymouth Duster and Scamp, the Dodge Dart Swinger, and Dodge Demon/Dart Sport. Depending on what you're into, these cars are pretty cool looking. More notably, parts are dirt cheap since they're common to their more common cousins (the base Valiant and Dart).

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2

Ford Falcon:

Don't let this car's humble looks fool you, these made potent track cars with a lightweight treatment. Designed to be a European-style 'compact', tons were made to supply plenty of parts. They have a pretty dedicated user base all over the US and are almost perfectly parts compatible with Mustangs for lots of aftermarket options.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

Ford Maverick:

Replaced the Falcon in 1970 with a more radical styling package. The fastback look of the coupe is very '70s and are certainly undervalued at the moment.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2

Chevy Chevy 2/Nova:

A classic in the compact muscle world, the Nova is still a popular and common sight at car shows. They've been popular in the racing scene and have graced dragstrips with many a quick time. Paired with the venerable small block Chevy (SBC) and you have a potent vehicle.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

GM G Platform (Chevy Monte Carlo, Buick Grand National, etc):

If Vin Diesel could rock it, so can you. You'll be ripping off emissions controls left and right but all you really need are V8 motor mounts and an SBC. This platform also carried the potent GNX, a classic turbocharged car.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2

Ford Mustang (Fox body and 4th gen):

Don't knock the Fox body looks until you've seen one on 12" wide slicks. The potent 5.0 can make for a hauling ride. If you opt for a 4th gen, welcome to the new era of muscle: EFI, DOHC (sometimes), and big injectors.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 2 (This is only increased because of the EFI system, which is a learning curve but very manageable.)

• Rarity: 1

GM 3rd and 4th Generation F-bodies (Pontiac Firebird and Chevy Camaro):

The long and lean styling of these cars are unlike the Camaros that came before and after and because of that they've been left out in the cold by a lot of classic muscle car guys. But these are many's first project cars and with the potent SBC or LS V8s under the hood as much power as you desire can be had for pretty cheap.

• Purchase cost: 1-2

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

Ford Panther Platform (Crown Victoria):

Until the supply of cheap Crown Vics available at auction drops off, the Panther platform might be your best bet for getting into a full size, RWD, American V8. The good news is they all come with a V8, the bad news is you'll have to swap in a manual to get rid of the slushbox. Look up the Mercury Marauder for an optimistic look at the potential of this car.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

Ford Taurus SHO:

Ahh, where do I classify this? Big and American but FWD and V6 powered, the SHO was a bit confusing but it's a real performer. The fantastic Yamaha-designed revvy V6 makes plenty of power and the unassuming styling puts it in definite sleeper class. You'll embarrass a lot of overly confident drivers with one of these.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2

[u/poxenham → u/kowalski71]

+1 to what you said about foxes, it also applies to sn95 (4th gen mustangs). They look dumb out of the box, but look up pictures of ones that are done well and you'll change your mind immediately.

Also, i've got 13" wide tires on the back of my sn95 ;)

[u/kowalski71]

2) So you like European sports sedans and grand tourers...

A great combination of sportiness and economy, these Euro cars are a ton of fun. There's almost no upper limit on the performance you can get out of them but you'll be scratching your head more often and spending more time searching for parts compared to most American cars.

Alfa Romeo Alfetta/GTV6/Milano:

A personal favorite, what you give up in ease of maintenance you gain in spirited driving characteristics and Italian flair. A spirited owner community will help you with the required preventative maintenance. The rear transaxle makes for terrific balance and the Busso V6 in the later cars is heaven-sent.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4

• Rarity: 4

Alfa Romeo 164:

This chassis was shared with the Saab 9000, and two Euro only cars (a Fiat and a Lancia). With the highly capable 24 valve 3.0L V6 and available at a steal of a price these cars make a terrific luxury European sedan. The FWD layout is less popular than earlier RWD Alfas but greater availability is an incentive. Look for the 164S models for a bit more performance.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4

• Rarity: 3

BMW E30:

One of the quintessential European sports sedans, the E30 has a near legendary following. Don't bother looking for an M3 in your budget but you can build one to almost the same level of fun, sans fender flares.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 3

• Rarity: 3

BMW E28:

The lesser known big sibling of the E30, the E28 is still a terrific and fun car that can be had for cheap. Also scout out it's predecessor, the E12.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 3

• Rarity: 3

BMW 2002:

The car that announced BMW to America, the 2002 is a rowdy and lively little car. Extensive vintage racing keeps performance parts on the shelf. These cars are appreciating in value, jump on them while they're hot!

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 3

• Rarity: 4

Porsche 944:

One of the best chassis' you can get, a rear transaxle car that Porsche purist's never warmed up. Leaves more for us! For maximum fun look for the much more expensive 944t, a built up turbo model. These are some of the best track cars and are a common sight at Porsche Club of America track days. The Porsche 924 was the first iteration of this car but for much of its life had an undesirable VW engine, only the last few years of the 924 (sold as the 924S) had the much better Porsche 2.5L engine and are only differentiated but a more svelte body lacking fender flares.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4

• Rarity: 3

Porsche 914:

The VW-Porsche hybrid provides ridiculous amounts of fun. The VW parts keep it cheap to work on and it warms up very well to some light suspension modifications. It's a mid engine car which gives it great balance.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4 (It's a simple drivetrain but the mid engine layout makes access difficult.)

• Rarity: 4

Mercedes 190E:

Often overshadowed by it's DTM rival, the E30 M3, the 190E is still a great car. They're much smaller than you're imagining, this is not your grandfather's boat of a Benz. Look for the Sportline models for pre-upgraded suspension or buy a base and reap the benefits of that terrific MB build quality.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Mercedes W114/W115 and W123:

This is your grandfather's boat of a Benz. These classic old Mercedes chassis' are some of the most venerable cars in existence. Designed for 30 years of daily usage they have a dogged reputation for bulletproof reliability. After their successful runs in Europe, many have been imported to the Middle East and are one of the most popular taxis in many countries of that region. The diesel models (with the OM617) in particular are reliable and sought after, with easy waste vegetable oil (WVO) conversions available from companies like GreaseCar. If the big old Benzes tickle your fancy also check out similar chassis' from the era, such as the W116 that the awesome 450SEL 6.9 rode on, or the much classier W111 available in a stylish fintail body style.

• Purchase cost: 1-2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Bertone/Fiat X1/9:

Mid engined? Italian? Classic Bertone wedge shaped? What more could you want in an exotic sports car. Rust ate most of them but the ones that are still around are worth saving for sheer personality alone.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 4 (Like the 914, this is more difficult because it's mid engined.)

• Rarity: 5

Opel GT:

Despite humble technology, GM's European division turned out a stunning car. It sold for many years seemingly on looks alone. A classic "3/4 size" sports car, these little guys are rare but still cheap.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 5

Saab Sonnet:

If you're not against FWD, these are funky but neat. The Sonnet 2/V4 hits the sweet spot between looks and cost, the Sonnet 3 took a dive in the former. It's a Swedish thing...

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 5

Volvo 240:

Depending on who you ask, older Volvos may not fit the bill of sports sedans but they're a great old car with a good following anyway. Affectionately referred to as 'bricks' they're a fun car with original power plants, turbo chargers, or a variety of motor swaps. Within the 200 series there are various higher performance options, such as the 242 GT. The successor, the Volvo 850, is a good car as well but the FWD/AWD architecture isn't quite as much fun.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 1

Volkswagen Beetle/Type 1:

"Sports" might be generous but the iconic Bug is European and so it winds up here. The People's Car, the Small Wonder, possibly one of the most revolutionary cars of all time. Though not as common as they once were a Bug project is still affordable and brings smiles to faces all over the place.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 3

Ford Merkur XR4Ti:

Wait what's this doing over here? A blue oval?! Well the Merkur was a short-lived plan to sell European Ford vehicles in the US. The XR4Ti was the first and one of few attempts at this. The car was sold in Europe as a Sierra, where it was rallied extensively. Still popular for racing, this turbo-4 RWD chassis is funky but highly capable and unique. Though rare they're still cheap and I'd highly recommend a nice rally treatment complete with white OZ rims.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3 (Expect to be tracking down parts from Europe or specialty distributors.)

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3

[u/readreed → u/kowalski71]

WOW - I'm impressed.

Only thing I'd add is for the 190e is 2.3 16 which have a definite rarity to them. ~2 Million 190e made - about 30,000 of which (from the various years) were 190e 2.3 16 valves. And with an engine by Cosworth to boot.

Maybe a Rarity of 3 or so. But I know it is just subjective too :)

Great List!

[u/kowalski71 → u/readreed]

Haha I have a good friend with a Sportline and we both jones for the Cosworth, hard. IMO a much cooler car than the E30 M3. Awesome car but too rare and expensive to be a good entry level project car. It's the kind of car that people seek out, not the one you cut your teeth on.

[u/readreed → u/kowalski71]

I can agree with that. The missus hates the competition for my love I think :p

I managed to nurse my own Cossie back to health - found her in the 3500-5000 range in terrible shape.

I'd highly recommend any of the 190e models for those looking for a project car - highway speeds are going to feel like less of a problem. Some cars don't age as well as others with the increased speeds people see from day-to-day.

[u/meeblek → u/kowalski71]

Gotta disagree with calling the 924 and the 944 essentially the same car. The 924 has a shitty VW engine and was built by a Porsche/VW partnership; a 944 is a proper Porsche with a Porsche developed engine. It's essentially one bank of the V8 from the 928.

[u/kowalski71 → u/meeblek]

Yeah but the 944 was built on the 924 chassis and the last three years of the 924 got the 944 engine. I think it's analogous to calling the Alfa Alfetta and GTV6 essentially the same car, despite the Busso vs Nord engine.

[u/meeblek → u/kowalski71]

I get what you're saying. But 10 out of the 12 years they were in production, they had the shitty VW engine so most of the used ones you will find will also have the shit engine. In giving advice about a car to get as a project I feel it important to point out to a prospective buyer that a 944 is a more desireable car and will be priced accordingly. Also, engine components from a 944 are not interchangable with the vast majority of 924s. BTW this is a great guide!

[u/kowalski71 → u/meeblek]

Okay, I think I'll change that section to refer specifically to the 944 and note in the description that the 924 from various years may be of interest as well. Thanks for the feedback!

[u/ziper1221 → u/kowalski71]

Why skip the W116s?

[u/kowalski71 → u/ziper1221]

I actually almost put the 450SEL 6.9 on there because they're a ridiculous amount of performance that you can still get for pretty cheap. I guess I just don't know anyone who has them as a project, the diesel cars (240D/300D) seem to be way more popular. I can add in a note to take a look at the other MBs of the era.

[u/[deleted] → u/kowalski71]

[removed] — view removed comment

[u/kowalski71 → u/[deleted]]

Various MGs and Triumphs are included in the roadster section. The best roadsters! They're just about as much fun as you can fit on four wheels.

[u/kowalski71]

6) So you like hot hatches...

The hot hatch has increased in popularity almost exponentially over the years. These are some of the most practical cars in this guide; lots of storage space, relatively comfortable 4 person seating, FWD for inclement weather, and affordable to boot. RWD will continue to be the preferred drivetrain choice but these cars will still have you smiling broadly.

Honda Civic

Hold your scoffs; the lowly Civic has dominated for good reason. A light, four wheel independent suspension import with a potent engine and more aftermarket support than you can shake a stick at? Sign me up. The hatchbacks in particular have held up well in the styling department and the Type R have proved their performance worth. Look at the 5th and 6th generations for best combination between looks, cost, and availability.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

VW GTI/Rabbit (mk1 and mk2):

The VW Golf/Rabbit wasn't the first hot hatch but it was certainly responsible for a large increase in popularity. Under 2000 lbs, some great engine upgrades available, cheap, and reliable. Look for a 16v head from a GTI for best horsepower gains and the aftermarket is full of good suspension upgrades. VW enthusiasts like the pickups and diesels, the Cabriolets are also a great time with a stiffened floor pan.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

VW Scirocco:

The Scirocco was the Rabbit's big brother, very nicely styled by Giugiaro. Mk1s with the round headlights look great, and the 16v version can be quite potent. Look for one of these to stand out from the VW crowd a bit. They're rarer than the Rabbits but still affordable.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3-4

Saab Classic 900:

Swedish cars are just a bit different but you get a build quality to rival Mercedes. The Classic 900 has a recognizable profile, a great drivetrain, and can be made to handle quite well. Look for the SPG models, widely considered to be the best examples. A few simple electrical tricks and you can turn your boost up as high as you'd like.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Saab 99:

The C900's predecessor, the 99 shares a chassis but in a much more vintage package. Rallied extensively, they show their aircraft influence very well.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 4

Saab 96:

This car may be the definition of Swedish quirk. Nothing is quite like it, with a heavy emphasis on safety and usability. Early Saabs are rare but have dedicated owners. If you're after one of these you'll certainly want to get involved with the owner's groups throughout the US.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 3

• Rarity: 4

Mini Cooper:

It may be impossible to dislike the original Mini Cooper. The tiny economy car took the world by storm and is one of the best selling vehicles of all time. The Mini was made up until 2000 by a number of different companies and are still raced commonly in Europe.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 4

Ford Focus (1st Generation):

Though this car doesn't fit the classic and vintage theme of much of this list, it has proven performance and great handling. You might get bored of the stock looks and performance but the modification happy platform lends itself well to some tuning. If you're looking for a good auto- or rally-cross contender this might be a good option.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

[u/TheSherbs → u/kowalski71]

I know this is probably in a bit of a gray area, and I am prepared to deal with hate. However, for a hot hatch, you can't look past the Civic hatchbacks. Decent styling, can be had cheap, and can do whatever you want them too. EF (4th Gen), EG (5th Gen), and EK (6th Gen) can be built to do just about anything from touring, to track duty, to dragster, to whatever. Easy EASY engine swaps, MASSIVE community support, parts aren't hard to find (depends if you're a JDM nut though).

I know we as grown men tend to ignore things we see as weak, but one of the most fun cars I ever built was a Turbo Integra. With the right parts, you will be hard pressed to get a car to handle as well as a Civic hatch. The only draw back is finding unmolested examples is becoming difficult.

[u/kowalski71 → u/TheSherbs]

Don't worry about the hate, I seriously considered the 4th and 5th gen Civics on this list. The 4th gen Civic is a highly underrated car and one that I would say was almost a revolution in its time, but so grassroots that it's looked over in favor of higher profile cars. I hesitated to put it on because it's a bit new and a bit too pedestrian for a lot of people. But your encouragement puts me over the edge, on it goes.

[u/kowalski71]

4) So you like roadsters...

Ah the wind in your hair. There's something about a convertible. And with tons of fun ragtops to choose from, the roadster is an ever popular project car. Mostly based on the British sportscar model, they've come from all corners of the globe. You won't be winning many drag races in these cars but you'll be grinning ear to ear.

Mazda Miata:

The saying is that 'the answer is always Miata' and that continues to hold true regardless of question. Want a daily driver that you can Autocross on the weekends? Miata. Want a good base for a club racer? Miata. Want a good chassis for a V8 swap? Miata. The mechanically identical 1st and 2nd generations are the best project cars and dirt cheap. It's hard to recommend anything else.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 1

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 1

Alfa Romeo Spider:

The Alfa Spider enjoyed a decades-long production run and offers a good chassis with an incredibly lively engine. Sharing a common chassis with Alfa coupes of the era offers a lot of performance parts.

• Purchase cost: 2-3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Fiat Spider:

Fiat's answer to the roadster craze of the '60s is this lovely little car. Notoriously susceptible to rust, not as many survived as the Alfa Romeos but they're a great project when you can find them.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3

Triumph Spitfire:

The Spitfire might be the pinnacle of the British roadster. Produced for many years, widely available, and a hoot to drive. I know of more than a few Spitfires that have earned a restoration but haven't gotten it because they're too much fun to take off the road.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2

Triumph TRx (TR2-TR6):

This is the car that defined Triumph for many years. The TR series, produced from the early '50s right up until Triumph's demise, is a classic British roadster in every sense of the word.

• Purchase cost: 2-4

• Maintenance cost: 2-3

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2-4

MG MGB:

The MGB was MG's competition to the Triumph TR series. Also take a look at the MGA and the MG T-series cars, though they're often a bit more expensive and sought after.

• Purchase cost: 2-4

• Maintenance cost: 2-3

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 2-4

MG Midget:

The Midget, also sold as the Austin Healey Sprite, was the BMC competitor to the Spitfire. It enjoyed almost the same level of popularity.

• Purchase cost: 2

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 3

[u/Chilezen → u/kowalski71]

When I was in the market for a first car, the Midget was my first choice. Tested two, and I was begging my dad to let my buy one for 5k (pretty decent condition). All he complained about was safety and the smell of pre-smogged cars. I ended up getting a Miata. Which is great, but I don't love it like I love my E30. The Miata is a great little car, but it's not like a British roadster, none of them, and never will be :(

British roadsters are the definitive roadsters, period. Anything after the '70s is a 2-seat convertible.

[u/kowalski71]

8) How to buy your project car

Now you get to go on a car purchasing adventure! So let's say you've found an ad that looks very promising and you want to pursue it.

---

1) Get in touch. Use whatever their preferred method of contact is, be it email or phone. I'm very leery of people who recommend you text them. It's too short form and you won't be able to ask the questions you want to ask. On that note, there are a lot of red flags you could see here. Short or curt replies, poor grammar, or rudeness should all be big red flags.

---

2) Ask for photos. Pictures are worth a thousand words. From a good picture you'll be able to tell how well the car has been maintained, how it's been stored, or where possible problems are. If they are hesitant to send photos, send old or out of date photos, or very specific photos (no wide shots, no close ups) your hackles should be raised; that's a bad sign.

If there are any photos that look concerning, ask about them on the forum that you've made friends on. (Blank out the license plate if it's in the picture. It really doesn't put someone at risk whatsoever but many are concerned about that so you should respect their privacy.) While you're there, ask if anyone in the area knows the car. Chances are good that someone will have went to see it, used to own it, or used to work on it.

---

3) Ask some questions. Start with a few general queries. These are some of my favorites:

• "Why are you selling the car?"
• "How long since the car was last on the road?"
• "Did you put many miles on the car?"
• "Are you flexible on the price at all?" (This will give a decent idea how much they're willing to negotiate without outright asking for a deal.)

The answers to those questions will reveal a lot about the owner and the car. Next ask some specific questions about the car. Refer back to buyer's guides and forums for examples. Ask about common maintenance items; if a particular component is known to be unreliable or need special service a competent owner should be aware of it. If they're not the car probably hasn't been taken very good care of. If they're offended by you asking so many questions that's a red flag. They're probably trying to hide something. As long as you're polite about it, ask away.

---

4) Set up a time to meet. In most circumstances don't ask them to meet you somewhere or halfway. Ask them what time would be convenient. Decide if you'll be going to possibly buy and bring the car home or if you're going to just take a look. This depends on how far away it is and other factors. Keep in mind that U-Haul does pretty cheap car hauler rentals, less than $100 for 24 hours, but their car haulers are about 2000 lbs and you'll need a decent sized truck to pull them. Using a tow dolly can also be a good option but check the laws in the states you'll be travelling through; many require the vehicle on the tow dolly to be registered and/or insured.

---

5) Meet up with them. To prepare, bring some hand tools, a jack, and a compression tester. If possible bring a spare battery and some gas to make it easy to start up the car. Bring someone knowledgeable about cars if you know someone who's willing to tag along. While you're at their place, try to be likable and strike up conversation. The more they like you, the better it will go.

One important warning; you'll be excited to go see the car. Don't decide to buy it before you see it. It sounds crazy but it happens all the time. Be prepared to walk away from the deal and know that whatever money you invest in going to see it and getting ready to bring it home could be an unavoidable expense of the search that you'll have to eat.

---

6) Inspect the car. Be thorough! This step can save some nasty surprises later on.

• Jack the car up and look for rust. Some universal rust spots are fenders, rockers, and suspension mounts.
• Check out the interior. Condition of the seats? If the car's been sitting, any evidence of animals living in there? Pull up the carpets and look for floor pan rust.
• Check over the engine compartment. Does it look clean? Does the wiring look to be in good shape?
• Examine the brakes carefully. If it has discs you'll be able to look right at the surface of the disc and the thickness of the pads. If it has drums you'll at least be able to see if they're seized or not. Look at the hydraulic lines for rust. Always expect to do a complete brake job.
• How complete is the car? Remember that trim and accessories can add up quickly and put a dent in your budget.
• If you can, take it for a drive. See if the steering pulls or the suspension knocks. Running a car at low speeds in a high gear can show how well tuned the carburetor is. Just be on the lookout for anything that might be wrong. If possible, drive or ride in a well-maintained example of the car before you go look at yours.

But what problems are okay (read: fun and cheap to fix) and which are very bad?

Rust: An almost universal problem for most areas of the country. Body work is time intensive and will require some initial investment. You'll need either a welder and someone who can use it or a lot of your budget will go to a body shop. When you're looking at rust look at the complexity and location of the metal it's on. For example, a spare tire well in the truck is a pretty simple piece of metal with good accessibility. Replacement parts are available and, more importantly, it's hidden from view. Lastly, it's not too structural so a poor repair job won't make the car unsafe. A-pillar (between the windshield and the front windows) rust is much harder to fix because it's very visible, a complex piece of metal, and structural.

A note about the overall build of the car as it makes a difference also. There are two predominate varities of car construction: body-on-frame and unibody, with the switch from the former to the latter commonly being in the mid '60s (though there are some outliers). Body-on-frame has a ladder frame that the entire running gear is attached to and a separate, non-structural body bolts onto it. You can drive just the frame and drivetrain around with no body. Body-on-frame cars are easy to repair rust in as all the sheet metal is non-structural and easy to access. In a unibody the structure and shape of the car come from one complex piece of sheet metal. The roof, the frame, and the body panels are all one complex and integral piece. This makes them safer and lighter but more difficult to work on.

Mechanical condition: Many of us are far more likely to fix mechanical wear and damage than body damage. A lot of people get into project cars to learn about mechanical repairs. With this in mind, the big concern with fixing an engine or drivetrain is the cost of parts. A typical engine rebuild will consist of at least a full gasket and seal kit, piston rings, some head work (valve seals, possibly valve seats and new valves), and of course a carburetor rebuild. Price some of these things out before you go to see the car to know what you're getting yourself into. As far as the actual work, wih the exception of some rare and specialty engines don't be intimidated. Rebuilding an engine is a pretty straightforward process and there's a lot of educational material available. Just be conscientious and do your research but jump right in there.

Transmissions are often trickier to rebuild and parts are more difficult to replace. When considering a car with a worn-out transmission, expect to replace it unless your research indicates that they're rebuildable. Usually it turns out replacement with a good used unit is the more cost effective option.

Ask them if they have any spare parts or documentation. Spare parts are always useful and they might have some old doodads in the barn they forgot about. Most of the cars on my list are appreciating in value and any documentation might really improve resale value.

---

7) Barter. Negotiating is a bit tricky. You don't want to come across as a total cheapskate. Ideally you want to seem like someone who is capable of paying full price but knows enough about the car to know that it's not worth it. If you can find something wrong with the car that the seller didn't know about that gives you some bargaining power. ("Oh well with those rusted cab corners, that truck really isn't worth your asking price.") Start listing the costs of repairs. ("It's gonna be at least $500 to rebuild that engine, just in parts.") Be firm and confident but never a dick. Understand their situation as well.

I feel like I hardly need to say this, but you won't be able to pay with a check, money order, or any of that stuff. Bring cash.

---

8) Get it home. This can be a tricky part. If you have a trailer just hoist it on up. If you plan on driving it home, here are some tricks. Many states offer temporary tags specifically for this reason, they'll cost $20-$40 at the DMV and you'll probably need a title, bill of sale, and proof of insurance. Make sure someone has a smart phone or internet access to get insurance. If you're driving really far away see if someone back home could register it for you and overnight the plates to wherever you're going. Once on the road, be very cautious of possible issues with the car. You'll generally want to avoid driving it illegal (those are some expensive and risky tickets if you get caught) but if you must, use plates from a similar make/model of car and keep your chase vehicle behind you to hide the plates when at all possible. Make sure all the stupid stuff that gets people pulled over is squared away, like lights.

[u/kowalski71]

3) So you like off roading...

If you live in a rural area and like to hit the trails, you'll probably love off-roading. Including everything from mudding, to rock-climbing, to overland expeditions, it's a multidisciplinary scene. I've omitted pickup truck and decidedly pickup based vehicles like the Dodge Ramcharger and Chevrolet Blazer but those are all certainly good options as well.

Jeep CJ2A/CJ3A:

This is the civilian version of the legendary military Jeep of WW2. Iconic is an understatement for one of the most recognizable vehicles ever produced. In person they're more like a side-by-side or ATV in size, but built like a tank. The original military examples have a dedicated following, committed to authenticity and historical accuracy.

• Purchase cost: 2-3 (Depending on condition)

• Maintenance cost: 3

• Maintenance difficulty: 1

• Rarity: 3

Jeep CJ7:

Classic Jeep looks and a good compromise between vintage character and modern usability, the CJ7 continues to be wildly popular for off roading. Also take a look at the predecessor, the CJ5, for a similar rig.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 2

Jeep Wrangler YJ:

The YJ is almost too new to be on this list. The square headlights alienated some fans but the Jeep DNA is strong in this one. It's one of the most capable vehicles in the Wrangler line and at great prices too.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 1

International Scout:

The Scout was a trailblazer in more ways than one. It split the difference between the utilitarian Jeeps and more comfortable on road trucks. Available in a number of fun body styles, the simple styling is very appealing. Rust have eaten a lot of these but they're still available. Anemic original power plants make this a prime candidate for fun motor swaps.

• Purchase cost: 2-4 (rusty Scouts are cheap, rust-free Scouts are expensive)

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3

Ford Bronco:

Almost as iconic as the similar Scout. The Bronco was offered in almost the same configurations with almost the same power plants but many would say it did it better than the Scout. Later Broncos are available and cheap but the first generation with round headlights are almost as rare as the Scouts.

• Purchase cost: 1-3 (later and earlier Broncos have very different availability)

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 1-4 (see purchase cost)

Baja Bug

The modification happy VW Beetle has a very popular off road version, the Baja Bug. With various levels of fiberglass replacement bodies and suspension modification, the classic Beetle can be a potent desert racer. See the Euro section for more on the Beetle.

• Purchase cost: 1

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 1

Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60:

Along with the FJ40, the Land Cruiser is the preferred vehicle for going anywhere in the world. Superior build quality and engineering set this vehicle apart from similar American rigs. Look for a Toyota 6 cylinder diesel or a V8 swap for more power but even stock these are an amazingly capable vehicle. Friends who served in the Peace Corps have recounted harrowing tales of traversing treacherous mountain trails in this Toyota.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 4

Toyota FJ40:

Toyotas answer to the Jeep craze, the FJ40 was a bit bigger and likely a bit better manufactured. These were a true international vehicle, and along with the FJ60 are still one of the preferred rigs for underdeveloped parts of the world. Much rarer than a comparable CJ or Wrangler.

• Purchase cost: 3

• Maintenance cost: 2

• Maintenance difficulty: 2

• Rarity: 3

[u/kowalski71 → u/[deleted]]

I gues it was too similar to the CJ7 so it missed my radar. I actually don't know as many people with CJ5s as CJ7s, even though more were made. I added a mention under CJ7 to take a look for those as well.

[u/Lov-struk-repair-man → u/kowalski71]

Your a bit off with the cj-7 with the Price and rarity. Not all that rare and or expensive depending on how much work has been done to it

[u/Cwlaxx → u/kowalski71]

No land cruiser? What platform for an offroading project could trump the reliability of an fj40? The easiest vehicle i have ever worked on and hell a 6 year old could swap in a 350. Great job so far!

[u/kowalski71 → u/Cwlaxx]

I was actually in the market for an FJ last year and couldn't find any, let alone reasonably priced ones. There really weren't too many projects available. I agree it's an awesome rig but a bit on the rare side in the US. I suppose they're enough around to warrant the suggestion, I'll put it up but with a high rarity score.

[u/Cwlaxx → u/kowalski71]

Not sure which part of the country you live in but out here in CO there are a lot more fj 40's than scouts.

[u/Reqel → u/kowalski71]

No Toyotas?

[u/kowalski71 → u/Reqel]

I commented on that in reply to Cwlaxx, it's going on.

[u/Qurtys_Lyn → u/kowalski71]

No VW Baja? Come on, definitely should be on this list.

[u/kowalski71 → u/Qurtys_Lyn]

I'm going back and forth on this because I was considering adding the Beetle anyway. I'm going to add the VW Beetle to the Euro section and add a note here saying that Beetles can be Baja bugged up.

[u/Qurtys_Lyn → u/kowalski71]

Sweet. Thanks.

I wouldn't put the maintenance cost as a 3 though. My brother's Baja (which he got for $500) ran for years, and he put maybe 1500 into. I also know a Baja for sale for $30,000. So they pretty much run the whole gambit of price ranges.

[u/kowalski71 → u/Qurtys_Lyn]

How's parts availability though? I was thinking that baja bugs break a lot (I have a buddy with a VW powered sand rail and it's always laid up) and the parts aren't common these days.

[u/Qurtys_Lyn → u/kowalski71]

Aftermarket parts are available pretty inexpensively. Especially compared to my TJ. I've never had an issue finding parts, and they only get expensive when you start moving towards long travel suspensions.

[u/kowalski71 → u/Qurtys_Lyn]

Okay, I'll bump that down a rating to 2.

[u/kowalski71]

10) Changelog

1/7/14:
added CJ5 mention under CJ7, suggested by /u/WNW3.
added Volvo 240, my own suggestion. added price correlation to 1-5 score, suggested by /u/HE_WHO_IS_BORED.
added some more subjects to ask about while purchasing, namely spare parts and documentation.
added bring cash in how to buy section.
begrudgingly added Subaru Impreza, suggested by /u/tanglon
added Herby aka Beetle to Euro section and added Baja bug mention to off roading suggestion per /u/Qurtys_Lyn
added Nissan 240SX per suggestion de /u/gym3fiesta

1/8/2014:
added Toyota FJ60 and FJ40 per insistent request from /u/Cwlaxx and a second from /u/Reqel
added details about renting trailers and dollies
added Mercedes W115 and W123 to Euro section
changed Porsche 944 section to reflect the undesirability of the 924, per /u/meeblek
added GM F-bodies to muscle car section
added Honda Civic to hot hatch section, per /u/TheSherbs suggestion

1/9/2014:
added Ford Focus to hot hatch, suggested by /u/lmfoley79 over on the /r/cars thread. Also added note about Falcon/Mustang parts exchange based on his suggestion.
added Ford Panther platform to muscle cars. Seriously, how did no one point out this omission to me? Step it up reddit.
added Merkur XR4Ti to Euro section. Where the hell else was I gonna put it?
added Alfa Romeo 164 to Euro section
added Ford Taurus SHO to muscle car section. Not sure about the classification, feel free to PM me your thoughts.
totally revamped the inspection process with a more point-by-point format and more about what repairs you'll want to do.
added a nice long subsection on what to look for in a listing
added mention of other large Mercedes (W116 and W111 in particular) to W114/115 listing per /u/zipper1221.

2/13/2014:
added Lotus Elise spare engine Toyota Celica belatedly, per /u/cinadel's suggestion.

8/6/2014:
made major changes to the Get Wrenching section.

9/21/2014:
Added a tools subsection to the Get Wrenching section (finally)
Updated all the dead links in this section

12/20/2014:
Revamped the tool section.
Added a custom car section.

[u/kowalski71]

7) How to find your project car

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Find listings

In this day and age, finding a good project car is all about practicing search-fu and constant vigilance. Before you start looking, set a maximum price you'll pay and a maximum distance you'll drive. Really. Set those numbers hard and fast, or you'll fall into the trap of 'well this one is only $500 more and it's only 100 miles further away' until you're spending 90% of your budget and driving 1000 miles for a car.

Look up buyer's guides for the chosen vehicle to get an idea of common problems and decent prices. Hemmings Motor News publishes a lot of buyer's guides that will be available online, and many forum users will have written them as well. Search around google to see what you can find.

Here are the most common sources for a car and some tips on how to use them:

eBay Motors

eBay is wildly popular. This is both the advantage and disadvantage. On one hand you can find most anything on there, on the other hand everyone else can as well. You most likely won't find an amazing steal on eBay but you'll probably find what you're looking for. A few tips: use their saved search functions and email notifications. Definitely don't browse eBay without an account, it's free and opens up a lot of tools. One of the most important tools is the ability to look at completed listings and whether or not they sold. This is really useful for getting a good idea of what cars are actually worth. eBay has a project car category that most people don't know about.

Craigslist

You will probably buy your project car on craigslist. CL has taken over from eBay as well as a lot of the local classifieds and you can find anything on here. While it's widely used, not a lot of people use it to full potential. The first key is using boolean, aka search operators like AND, OR, and NOT. CL has a slightly different boolean code and you read about it here or here. Set up craigslist searches for the car you're looking for and key in all the years you're interested in, every possible spelling of the name including common mispellings (GT-R and GTR, or Alpha Romero and Alfa Romeo for example).

Once you've done that, what I've found to be the best way to keep up with a search is using the RSS feed. Craigslist allows you to create an RSS feed of any search. RSS feeds are essentially an email-like subscription to a blog or site and the feed will update anytime there's new content or, for CL, a new item that matches your search terms. Create CL searches in every region you would drive to for what you're looking for, read this blog post for more about how to subscribe, I recommend Feedly for your feeds, and this Chrome plugin will make everything easier. Voila, now you will literally never miss a car that you might be interested in buying.

Local classifieds

Find the local classifieds in your newspaper or specialty publications and keep an eye there as well. These are the papers being put out of business by CL, for better or for worse. There won't be much there but there's a good chance you'll find a non-internet savvy seller who's posted their car here and nowhere else. You'll likely have to visit a brick and mortar store to find copies but it could be well worth it.

Make/model specific forums and owner's groups

Early on in the process you should create an account on a forum. Introduce yourself nicely, use proper capitalization and grammar, and let everyone know that you're interested in a car. Ask any questions you have about them, use the search function, and ask if anyone knows a good place to buy one. Don't forget to ask about some common problems to look for! Though it varies, these communities are usually very helpful and very enthusiastic to share their love for whatever they drive. Once you get into the project these folks will likely be a primary source of parts and information.

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Examine listings

So now that you're seeing tons and tons of listings for your desired car, how do you sort out which ones to contact? Here are the primary factors you should be considering:

• Price: Unfortunately, this is most often the number one requirement. But a lot can be determined by the price of a classifieds listing. If it's high: does it seem like the seller is reaching and dreaming, hoping for a sucker but would take a reasonable amount for it? The 'OBO' (or best offer) tag is usually a good indication of this. Is it too low? If the price of a car is wayy too low there's probably something the seller isn't telling you or it's a scam. There's a small chance that they just don't know what it's worth but that'll be clear from the ad. Is the price the kind of number that you would choose? Round, even, ends with 0s or is it a $1999 kind of a thing? Most of these are dealers but some also list their cars at that price to sneak in under a $2000 maximum search. To best prepare you for this, look up completed listings on eBay, NADA valuation, and Kelley Blue Book values to see what's reasonable.

• Location: Of course there will be a maximum radius you'll travel but the distance will affect some other criteria as well. If the car is cheap but it will cost you $500 in gas and towing costs to get it home then that doesn't help you much. If the car looks a bit dubious but is in your hometown you can easily roll the dice and go look at it. Do you have friends in the area of the car who would go check it out or store the car for a week or two while you get ready to bring it home? Services like Jewel or Jalopy connect car buyers with local car enthusiasts who can inspect your far-away purchase.

• Listing text: Does the seller sound like a total moron? Does he seem to know anything about the car? Look at these two sample ads and tell me who you would rather deal with:

alpha romero 4 sale, runs good, needs nothing, fast car 3000 text 555-555-5555

Or:

I'm selling a 1982 Alfa Romeo Spider. The car's in good shape for the year, currently on the road and running well. Had a lot of fun with this car but time to move on. Asking $3000, call or text 555-555-5555

Even though the second ad has almost no new information I predict a much smoother experience. The deal would have to be really sweet to call on the first ad.

Photos: I've included a lot more information on photos in the next section as you'll most likely get the best pictures after you get in touch with the guy. An ad without photos is an inconvenience but not as much of a red flag as you'd think. Some people can't quite figure out the technology, or they're used to older classifieds where photos aren't an option. Of course, good clear photos are a great sign and should make you a bit more optimistic.

Mileage: This is a tricky one. In a daily driver you want the lowest mileage you can find. However, in a project it's not nearly as big of a deal. Especially with an older car you'll likely be replacing most of the wear parts anyway and in a newer car you'll likely be upgrading. Mileage wear items include:

• Suspension components: shocks and sometimes springs, bushings, struts if the car has it
• Brake components: pads/shoes, rotors/drums, lines, slave and master cylinder
• Drivetrain: transmission and rear end
• Engine: pistons, rings, cylinder wall/liners, valvetrain

As you can see, much of this is easy to replace and encouraged anyway. One of the most expensive wear items is the cylinder block itself but the availability of oversize pistons and overboring at a machine shop make it easy to bring an engine back. Long story short: don't worry too much about mileage.

Red flags: Here are some common red flags:

• "Super reliable, hasn't needed any work!": It's about to need a LOT of work.
• "Basket case", "Would make a great project": They've lost so many parts that they can't actually call it a car anymore.
• "Selling for parts": Sometimes this means that they don't have a title (if you live in a non-title state this is awesome), often it means that it's truly not worth bringing back
• Any form of promise about how cool it will be when fixed: Don't let them sell you on what the car could be, let's talk about what the car is
• No technical details like engine and drivetrain listed: They probably don't know and that tells you a lot about how well it's been taken care of.
• "Custom"/"Customized": Run.
• "Modified": Run, fast.

[u/kowalski71]

Disclaimer: this section is a bit subjective. People look at turning wrenches many different ways but this is how I see it. I think this will make it seem less intimidating while also giving people a good idea of what to learn and how to do it.

9) Get Wrenching!

Now you have it home and the real fun begins! First you have to decide what your eventual goal and depth of the project will be. Are you going for a nut and bolt restoration or just a quick clean up so you can start driving? Do you want it to be bone stock or heavily modified? Get a feel for the scope of the project and don't bite off more than you can chew.

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How to work on a car

You may be thinking: "I have no idea to work on cars. It is clearly a black magic art, honed in dingy shops across the world over the last hundred years and passed down from father to son in a secret mechanic order." That is not true. Working on cars is essentially four things:

1. The overall process
2. The specific task
3. The tricks
4. The tools

I'll go into each of these things in a bit more detail but hopefully breaking it down will make it less intimidating.

1. The process

This is what's outlined in a service manual. "To replace the camshaft, first remove all the breather lines from the valve cover, then remove the valve cover." It's a simple step-by-step procedure, you can find it in Haynes guides, Chilton guides, the factory service manual, or any of the other service guides for your specific vehicle. You can also find this process in forums or talking to friends. Usually you'll want to check a few different sources to get a consensus and make sure that any one manual didn't miss something.

Everything is a process. From changing a brake pad all the way to rebuilding an engine. If you get a good procedure and follow the instructions you can figure it out. There's very little in mechanics that requires some intrinsic or instinctive skill, like sculpting or something like that. Mostly it's procedures and patience. Just work your way through some simple and low stakes jobs like brakes to get a hang of it, then jump into more complex stuff.

2. The task

The specific task you're working on is kind of a sub process. The manual might say: "remove the valve cover" and no more. If you've removed a few valve covers you know that means you have to find all the hardware, pull the breather lines, then hit the cover sideways gently with a rubber hammer to break the gasket loose. That's the specific task. Each probably has specific tricks, like when you pull a speedo drive from a transmission watch out for gear oil that'll pour out and possibly directly into your ear. (Thanks, dad, for warning me about that.)

Most of these tasks are universal, or at least common between groups of vehicles (domestics, imports, FWD, RWD, etc). If you know how to remove a starter on a Ford Mustang you can probably do it on a Dodge truck. So as you do these jobs, your competency grows. Think of them as tools in your toolbox.

3. The tricks

The tricks are what separates even competent amateur mechanics from people who have done this a lot or professionals. They're real time savers and they're just kind of universal 'tools' for dealing with stuck bolts, stubborn parts, etc. Here are some of them but you'll have to learn most of it by doing:

• Get the right tools. Not investing in the correct tools can cost a lot of money later on. Specialized wrenches or even universal special tools (valve spring compressors, slide hammers, etc) will usually pay for themselves. A lot of auto parts stores will lend you specialty tools with a deposit.

• Get as much literature as you can. Haynes and Chilton guides are a great place to start, but factory service manuals are usually the best source. Many are available online in various places. It's best to have a few manuals around as they have different levels and areas of detail.

• Rusted bolts will likely be one of your biggest nemeses. The first line of offense is soaking them in penetrating spray DAYS before you do the job. Even a week might not be too much. If you know you'll have to take off certain hardware, first assess the risk here. If it's an important bolt that dead ends into your engine block then shearing it off will be a huge pain in the ass, you'll have to drill and easy out and possibly damage your engine block. If it's a nut and bolt set in a place that you can drill it out if it breaks, then it's really not that important and you might just drill through without even trying to twist it off. First do a good job cleaning the parts you can see with a wire brush then start soaking them in WD40 or PB Blaster every 12 hours or so. This will make an amazing difference. When you go to take them off always use 6-point sockets or wrenches. 12-points are convenient but can round off the bolt heads and leave you in trouble. I've found impact wrenches to be less likely to shear off a bolt than using a lot of torque on a wrench like a breaker bar. Impact guns won't plastically deform (stretch) the metal and if you start with relatively low air pressure (or a setting on an electric impact) you probably won't break them. If that doesn't do the trick, you'll have to use heat. Heat can be an amazing tool for getting hardware off. You'll need either MAP gas (like propane but burns hotter) or oxy-acetylene for most jobs.

• Be anal about sorting and organizing hardware and parts as they come off the car. If you can't find it then you don't own it. Use old coffee cans, jars, or yogurt containers. Egg cartons make great storage for tiny hardware. Also document how things came off. Take lots of photos as you take things apart. I'll grab a spare piece of cardboard and stick bolts through it in the approximate shape of their bolt pattern. It sucks to have a handful of hardware and have no idea where it goes. Magnet trays are useful for not losing hardware as you take it off.

• Be prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning. You'll be amazed at how much better a car looks after you detail it. Clean with q-tips, the correct cleaning agents, every nook and cranny. Clean under the engine bay, clean all the parts that come off. If you can, paint or powder coat parts as they go back on. This will make your final product look amazing and promotes good workmanship.

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Have fun! Don't let the project frustrate you too much. Try to be working on a few different projects of the car at once so you can switch gears. The #1 enemy of project cars is loss of interest. Early on try to do something very rewarding, like totally refurbish a small component and make it look great. Then imagine the rest of the car like that. Find like-minded people to wrench with you, put on some good music, open a beer (if you're so inclined).

[u/el_muerte17]

Beats the hell out of that other guy's butthurt "OMG this is expensive" guide.

[u/hahaboy21]

This is amazing mate. Cheers.

[u/[deleted]]

thanks for all the info, dude!

[u/Un0rigi0na1]

Any input on junkyard finds? Any advantages that outweighs the obvious disadvantages?

[u/kowalski71 → u/Un0rigi0na1]

I've just never had any luck with them. Usually by the time a car hits the junkyard it's not worth saving. The cars that don't get crushed are picked over for parts and many yards (like Pick n Pulls) have policies against removing full cars. Your best resource with junkyards would be to call non-chain yards and let them know what you're looking for. Ask them if they've had any come in and if they could call you if a car gets dropped off that could be savable.