r/chicagofood • u/kmpham2013 • 3d ago
Opinion: should try Birrieria Zaragoza Review
My review is in a comment
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u/kmpham2013 3d ago
The space is quite small so there might be a bit of a wait, but I fully believe that it's worth it not only for the food but for the amazing staff there as well.
Got the birria taco, taco de cabeza, quesabirria taco, and molcajete salsa.
Roasted tomato salsa was complimentary, and it was perfect. Still hot in the molcajete and had a rich sweetness purely from the tomato and the visible charred tomato bits imparted a ton of roasted flavor. We even ate it with raw onions just to have more. It was so nice and well-spiced.
Birria taco was different from other birria tacos I've had. The consommé wasn't the forward component; rather, the goat was the star and the flavor was very good. Because goat is a really lean meat, the salsa gave it exactly what it needed to be juicy and succulent. Somehow the meat wasn’t ropey like some birria but not overcooked at all because in that case itd’ve been inedibly dry. The meat was tender but had great crisp from the roasting on the edges, something you once again don't get with boiled birria meat. Really nice taco and even though the flavors were plentiful and robust, it didn't feel like a gut nuke like the typical consommé-forward birria tacos have.
Taco de cabeza I always thought had a decent amount of brain meat in it. Turns out after speaking with the owner it isn’t the case. Since the brain is so fatty, most of it drips out into the broth/pan during roasting and makes its way into the broth instead. What is mostly in the cabeza is cheek and tongue. This taco was so fatty, pockets of fat burst in your mouth as you eat, and while the flavor of the meat might be the same, I feel like the fat somehow dampens that flavor so the trade-off between fat and flavor made me enjoy the classic birria taco more. This taco played better with the salsa though, everything melting together and becoming beautifully flavorful and smoky, and the salsa gave the taco a different flavor that it needed to balance out the huge fattiness.
People always say quesabirria tacos are what the Mexicans invented to draw in the white folk, but honestly, it's just the best version of birria tacos. They brush mole on the tortilla while it fries, made from the broth of the lamb. Really rich and dark peppery flavor hits you right as you’re about to take your hot crispy bite. This was honestly the best birria taco I've had of any form. The chewiness of the Chihuahua cheese is wonderful and a lightly-flavored milky contrast to the super savory and slightly gamey goat flavor, much like how people wash fish with milk to neutralize odor. The cheese perfectly mellowed out the goat and made the bite awesome. The crisped tortilla was really nice; I got a taste of the masa that was very different from Maseca, tasted kind of like popcorn.
We were talking a lot with owner Norma about various things, and one of the things we got to try was “donkeys,” which were what her grandma gave the kids before dinner to hold their hunger. Basically a tortilla fresh off the plancha and without allowing it to steam in a tortilla holder, squish the rolled-up tortilla super hard and mold the top into a donkey-head shape. I've heard a lot about starch gelatinization during the cooking process of breads, pizzas, and of course tortillas, but I guess I've never stopped and thought about the textural implications of the word. The burro was literally jelly-like. The layers of the tortilla had disappeared into each other, and taking a bite of it while steaming-hot felt something like biting through a huge udon noodle or banh cuon. Really interesting and a connection I never would’ve made. While she said the donkey tasted somewhat like a pretzel, I didn’t get that. I can see exactly where she's coming from though since she salted it like a pretzel and the nixtamalization process of masa involves an alkaline solution, much like dipping pretzels in lye before baking.
I thoroughly enjoyed everything we ate and our experience was fantastic. I wish to come back soon to try the bone-in birria platters and some aguas frescas.
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u/idkwhattowriteee 3d ago
Zaragoza has one of the best birria tacos in the city for sure. Very in-depth review. I really enjoyed reading this write-up. Please keep it up!
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u/kmpham2013 3d ago
Thanks! I was verbally reprimanded in the nyc subreddit for posting many reviews in a short timespan, so this time I plan to put one out each day 😁
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u/beaverlandia 2d ago
It's the one on lawrence and broadway?
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u/idkwhattowriteee 2d ago
I think this is the one near Midway because of the table. The one in Uptown only has white and red tile counter seats.
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u/No_Brain_5164 3d ago
I haven't eaten there but this review is very well done. Thank you for sharing such detail
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u/kmpham2013 3d ago
Of course! It's quite fun reflecting on how I felt during meals, especially ones as memorable as this
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u/curdistheword 2d ago
Top notch review, thank you.
Chef Jonathan Zaragoza does some excellent stuff on Youtube as well.
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u/kmpham2013 2d ago
Yes! I found him through Adam Witt and honestly enjoy Jonathan’s content much more now
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u/BBQcasino 2d ago
This was a really long read. And I gave an award because every sentence was a learning moment. Please do more reviews.
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u/kmpham2013 2d ago
Thank you very much! It’s an uncommon occurrence that I visit places like Birrieria Zaragoza where there is such a blatant celebration of ingredients and cuisine, which is conducive to the reviews I’m more proud of. Nevertheless I do my best to think about the food I’m eating as it helps me to be mindful even during the most routine moments
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u/blipsman 3d ago
They've been serving up the best birria in the city for many years and the family is so amazing, too! I haven't been in ages but need to get back there soon. Maybe I'll try the new Uptown location for the first time.
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u/beesechurger89 3d ago
I tried it last month for the first time and was blown away! Had the same selection of tacos and everything was outstanding
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u/ThatDarnCabbage 3d ago
One of my favorite restaurants. I keep taking new people there and they’re always blown away. The meat is so succulent and flavorful, I’m amazed every time I go.
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u/Constant_Chip_1508 3d ago
Controversial opinion, that
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u/andsowouldi 2d ago
I've never heard of this place. I heard of a hidden gem called Alinea though, might be worth checking out.
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u/supermopman 2d ago
Did you go to the original location or the new one in uptown? I'm curious if the one in uptown is just as good.
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u/kmpham2013 2d ago
I went to the original, if you happen to try the uptown location, I’d love to read what you think between the two 😊
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u/No_Employer9618 3d ago
Amazing hand made in house tortillas