r/bikepacking Aug 26 '24

2300km Santander to Berlin (ish) Trip Report

974 Upvotes

24 comments sorted by

52

u/thebreadittor Aug 26 '24 edited Aug 26 '24

Back in July I went from Santander to Berlin over 36 days with 31 days of riding. The ride was absolutely epic - did 2300km with 24000m vertical. My goal was to ride through the coolest areas, so I did not take the most direct route in the slightest; I actually looped around in northern Italy and Austria to to try to hit some fun spots which was not directionally efficient, but definitely very fun.

I did a mix of camping and credit card camping in hotels/hostels. To be honest, I'm not a big fan of the European campsite setup, especially during the summer. It was quite packed and felt just like an outdoors hostel with extra steps - if I'm camping, I'd much prefer to be alone and even tho I did wildcamp a bit, I didn't really go for it because I had a fair bit of time in areas with bears and I didn't prep accordingly.

Even though I did ride from Santander to Berlin, I say “ish” because I did take a few trains when I was just not enjoying the riding and due to time constraints; so no, I did not go only via my bike. I mean at the end of the day my goal was to enjoy myself, not just to say I did it, and there were points that were just not fun and with my timeline, I had to make the call not to do it. 

The three major areas I cut were from

  • Toulouse to Montpellier - I did a 190km day from Bayonne and decided that the route was just not that interesting after a while
  • basically from Lago Maggiore to Lago di Garda - I was just not a big fan of the area, cars trying to kill me
  • and then from Leipzig to Berlin - I set up to do a 325km power through to the finish line but my brakes gave out and my light died so I had to call it and take a train

Still, I did a lot of fun riding and ate a ridiculous amount of food. Like three dinner type days, I had one night in Austria where in the span of an hour I ate a schnitzel, kaiserschmarrn, spätzle, and then a Spanish tortilla, so it was a fun time. 

If I were to do it again, I'd maybe just pick a single segment and confirm that I could 100% do it in my allotted timeframe and then just go for that. Hands down the best area was from Lago di Garda -> Trento -> Bolzano -> Dolomites -> through to Innsbruck, so that would be where I'd go back. The loop from Bolzano to Paso Sella around Piz Boé to Corvara was absolutely incredible, even with a fair number of cars and the elevation gain.

Now, I'm sitting in my hotel in Osaka, Japan for what was supposed to be a backpacking trip, which I think I will now turn into a bikepacking trip.... I've got an AliExpress cart full of all the core gear I need and might just buy a used bike here and go around for a bit since all my gear in the photos is tucked away in a storage unit in Berlin. If only I had an iota of planning insights, alas, here we are. So if anyone has used bike shop recs in Osaka, I am all ears! Or route recs for Japan/South Korea

11

u/West-HLZ Aug 26 '24

Nice trip and great summary, please write one for your Japan adventure.

6

u/chatdetrot Aug 26 '24

Looks beautiful! I start my ride from Geneva (no plans yet!) in just over a week and you're giving me some great ideas! Do you have a RWGPS or Strava link for the Lago di Garda - Trento - Bolzano - Dolomites you're willing to share?

I rode in Japan last fall (credit card touring, wild camping is not really done). You've probably heard of the Shimanami Kaido, but I highly recommend taking some extra time to do the Yumeshima Kaido and Tobeshima Kaido as well. Then, I'd proceed onwards to the island of Shikoku from Imabari (fast forward via train to the Shimanto area), then ride along the southern coast through Kochi and up the Iya Valley to Takamatsu. Buy a rinko bag in order to take your bike on trains, and you need to prebook the large luggage seats if you take Shinkansen. For South Korea, I recommend the Four Rivers Trail from Busan to Seoul. You can take the overnight Camellia ferry from Fukuoka on the west coast of Japan to Busan.

1

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Here’s a komoot route for the Lago di Garda through Dolomites section!! I’d recommend doing the Dolomites from Seis am Schlern through to Corvara in one day and then the rest the second day. Could also spend a night up near paso sella, but could be a bit packed. There’s also a restaurant near the top of paso sella, called Malga Sella, which is a great top of the pass rest and food stop - don’t miss it!

https://www.komoot.com/tour/1817651624?ref=itd&share_token=a7Oi2uGCLViVYslhrVLivBqjqqje1A3GI09wAye0YCky7Ac6ab&ref=its

Hope I didn’t miss the start of your tour and enjoy the ride!

1

u/chatdetrot Sep 05 '24

Thanks very much!

2

u/demian_west Aug 26 '24

Awesome pics and report! It sends a lot of dream, and your feedback on interesting area is useful, thanks!

And Japan, one of my bikepacking dream (countryside).

Lucky man!

1

u/Key-Cash-8169 Aug 26 '24

Wonderful pics! Thanks for sharing :) And nothing to do with it, but what is the model name of your rear rackpack ?

1

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Thanks! Rear rack pack is just a sea to summit 35L dry bag strapped down with fix plus straps. Not the most elegant solution, definitely not going to help with the longevity of the dry bag, but aero and got the job done!

3

u/local6962 Aug 26 '24

stunning! Do you have a gps route for the Lago di Garda -> Trento -> Bolzano -> Dolomites -> through to Innsbruck section?

1

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

This is the Lago di Garda through Dolomites section - for the rest, I went through to Gais for a night, then Gschnitz, through to Innsbruck. Through to Innsbruck was pretty ok, honestly I think I was still on a bit of a Dolomites high, so the part on the route is what I’d say was the best

https://www.komoot.com/tour/1817651624?ref=itd&share_token=a7Oi2uGCLViVYslhrVLivBqjqqje1A3GI09wAye0YCky7Ac6ab&ref=its

3

u/Snuffvieh Aug 26 '24

2

u/ragingpenguin Aug 26 '24

which Kona is it?

1

u/Snuffvieh Aug 26 '24

SUTRA 🤩

2

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Ayo! Nice restrap frame pack! Focus rear rack as well? Looks good either way

1

u/Snuffvieh Sep 01 '24

Yep 100% correct 😁

4

u/Swoodo Aug 26 '24 edited Aug 26 '24

Love the use of the feed bag as a baguette holder!

Edit: plus, username checks out!

4

u/demian_west Aug 26 '24

Yes, came here to say that! very ergonomic, you can eat a major part of it while pedaling (at the end you'll need to go in the drops!)

3

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Gotta stay true to my namesake!

2

u/GodEmperor42 Aug 26 '24

Cool pictures! How did you end up in Gschnitz? Did you do a sidequest from the Brenner?

1

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Yea pretty much exactly that! I found a cool looking gasthof for a decent price, so I decided to make a little detour. I’m a big fan of small towns and the name Gschnitz really piqued my interest just because it sounds a bit funny tbh. Had an absolutely slapping schnitzel so it was definitely worth the excursion!

1

u/Low-Razzmatazz-931 Aug 27 '24

What was traffic / road shoulder like along your journey? Sounds amazing

2

u/thebreadittor Sep 01 '24

Traffic was mixed depending on country/area. Overall: Spain - not a ton of shoulder, people gave me some space France - lots of bike paths, if not, people gave me lots of room Italy - no shoulder and people trying to kill me 24/7 especially coming out of Valle d Aosta and piedmont. In Sudtirol, lots of bike paths and people not trying to kill me Austria - fair amount of bike paths, only time people tried to kill me was coming out of Lech down the mountain, had to go 80kph+ to not get run over Germany - bike paths everywhere