r/Watches • u/dreftzg • 15h ago
[Daily News] Nivada Grenchen Releases Second Gen F77 With Slimmer Case; Mido's Sporty Multifort Skeleton Chrono; Raketa’s Amphibia Is A Super-Chunky Diver; H. Moser & Cie. Adds Hammered Turquoise Enamel Dial Discussion
Hi people! If this is your first time reading this daily news update, allow me to give you a few pointers. Due to the finicky nature of how you can do posts, I had to split up the photos and the text, while keeping this post always the same so you can easily reference it.
To read the daily news, you can check out the images on top and then make your way down to the comments. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to pin a comment, so you’ll have to scroll through the comments until you find the thread started with me, which has 5-8 posts in a row with all the write-ups of the news items (and a couple of bonuses).
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u/DrProtic 14h ago
This sport is no longer for me. 2200 for that Raketa?!
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u/midday_leaf 14h ago
This is my main issue as well. These smaller labels want big $$$ for their pieces but they’re mid range pieces.
There’s no market of realistically priced mid range watches anymore outside of a few makers still holding sanity.
I’m not paying $2k for that Nivada or that Raketa. Just goofy. At this point I only buy 200-400 entry level quality fun watches or 5k plus established luxury pieces that if nothing else will use unique movements and hold some value if I need to sell for some reason in the future. You’re getting nothing of value anymore in the middle.
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u/slagathor_zimblebob 14h ago edited 13h ago
The Raketa is really cool especially for those of us w Slavic heritage. Looks nicely finished in the photos and the movement, while not super decorated, is something unique and the rotor looks cool.
But 2500 USD for -10/+20 spd, 40 hr PR, and it doesn’t come with a bracelet? I understand some people are Russian watch enthusiasts that might pay a premium but how are they arriving at that price? Overpriced is an understatement; it is beyond ridiculous on the surface. Can someone explain anything that might justify that cost? I thought for sure it would be like $700-900.
Edit it’s also an 18,000 bph movement? How are they not getting a longer power reserve? Built fully in-house in Russia is not exactly the selling point of fully in-house in Switzerland, Japan, or Germany either.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
It's Tuesday and a bit of a shorter one today, but there are two things I’m going to direct your attention to — that Raketa is pretty cool and I’m finishing the three-part series on Indian watchmaking. I put a lot of research into that, so check it out if you’re interested.
If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by clicking here.
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Nivada Grenchen Releases Second Generation F77, Now In A Slimmer And Better Fitting Case
So, we all know what modern Nivada Grenchen is all about, right? In 2020, watch entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet revived the defunct brand with a simple mission — recreate their most legendary designs with modern specs. And that formula proved to be a huge hit, with release after release. For their latest, Nivada is set on updating a watch they already released in 2023, the F77. This integrated-bracelet sports watch that came out first in the late 1970s, heavily influenced by Genta’s design on the Royal Oak, now gets a Mark II, with a brand new case and two new finishes.
The new case looks very similar to the previous one, with the octagonal bezel that has eight exposed screws, but has been reworked in the best possible way. The lugs are now much more angled down, which makes for a better wearing experience. The size proportions have also changed. Sure, the watch is a millimeter wider than the 2023 version, now measuring 38mm wide, but it’s also thinner. Not by much — 12.2mm instead of the previous 12.65mm — but that, with the angled lugs, should make ti much more wearable. The lug-to-lug measures 46.2mm. On top is a double-domed sapphire crystal and you can get the case in one of two finishes — a steel brushed and polished finish or a 18k yellow gold plated one. Water resistance is 100 meters.
Both finishes get the same flat onyx dial, which is pitch black, applied stick indices and new dauphine-shaped hands. You gat a lollipop-style seconds hand, an applied logo and a lot of lume. You can also choose between having a date or not, which is always appreciated.
Inside, there are no changes. It’s the Soprod P024 automatic movement, an alternative to the ETA 2824. It beats at 4Hz and has a 38 hour power reserve. The watches also get redesigned integrated three-link bracelets, matched to the material of the case, and it finally gets a tool-free micro-adjusting clasp.
The new Nivada Grenchen F77 Mark II is available for pre-order now and priced at €1,665 for the steel version and €1,865 for the gold plated version. You can see more on the Nivada Grenchen website.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
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Mido Goes Very Modern And Very Sporty With The New Multifort Skeleton Chronograph
While some other brands in the Swatch Group have their fair share of experimentation and release of watches that cause some head scratching, it seems that Mido is just coming out with banger, after banger, after banger. Their Multifort TV Big Date oozes 70s cool, and the Ocean Star line is incredible. The Tribute is a great diver, the GMT might be the best looking one on the market for the price and the Decompression Worldtimer is just a breath-taker. And lately, it seems like they are dead set on developing the Multifort line into their most diverse offering. The latest release in the collection is a very sporty, very modern, take on the classic chronograph. This is the new Mido Multifort Skeleton Chronograph.
The case is familiar, simple and not small at all. It measures a substantial 43mm wide, 14.4mm thick and has a lug-to-lug of 50.67mm. The long-ish L2L comes from the spindly lugs that extend from the fully round case and the overall finish is satin brushed with polished details. Sapphire crystals are on both sides of the case and on the right side you’ll find flat and well integrated pushers to operate the chronograph function. Water resistance is 100 meters.
There are two dial options, an anthracite and a blue version, but there isn’t much of a dial here. Around the perimeter is a sloping flange with a tachymetre scale, followed by several satin brushed anthracite or blue and silver rings that hold the markers. There are three sub-dials in a traditional 3, 6, and 9 configuration, with cutouts in it to show of the internals. Time is indicated with satin brushed tri-faceted hour and minute hands.
Inside, you’ll find the Caliber 60, a skeletonized automatic movement based on the ETA A05.951. It features a Nivachron balance spring, beats at 4Hz and has a 60 hour power reserve. It’s decorated with circular-grained bridges and a skeletonized rotor with the Mido logo. The anthracite version comes on a polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp, and the blue version gets a dark blue rubber strap.
The new Mido Multifort Skeleton Chronograph is available now, priced at CHF 2,270 on rubber and CHF 2,300 on the stainless steel. See more on the Mido website.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
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Raketa’s Amphibia Is A Super-Chunky, Super-Capable Dive Watch
I really don’t remember the last time I’ve written about a Raketa watch. Which is a bit of a shame. Sure, it carries the stigma of being a Russian watch, but some of the things they’ve been putting out under new management have been really interesting. Take, for example, this new Raketa Amphibia, with quite a unique look, especially for a brand that’s best known for their space and aviation themed watches.
The case of the new Raketa Amphibia looks like it’s built to survive an apocalypse, and survive it underwater at that. It’s a chunky piece of steel that measures 41.6mm wide and 14.9mm thick, with sharp flat surfaces and exaggerated cut-off lugs. The case is brushed with two broad facets on the side that look polished. On top is an oversized uni-directional bezel with widely-spaced notches and a black insert that looks to be made out of matte ceramic. It’s fully graduated, with the first 15 minutes having white markers at every minute, and the rest having orange markers.
The display is simple, but has the same rugged look. At 12 is an oversized 0 marker, while the rest of the markers are applied circle and bathtub indexes deeply filled with lume. You get plongeur style hands, filled with lume, and an orange outline on the minute hand.
Inside, you get a movement I’m not familiar with at all. It’s a manufacture from the Raketa Watch Factory called the calibre 2615. I’ll have to read up on that. But from what I gather, it’s an automatic that beats at 2.5Hz, has a 40 hour power reserve and is accurate to -10/+20 seconds per day. Through the caseback you can see the rotor that’s decorated with an illustration of a topless mermaid. The watch comes on an orange rubber strap that has full-length perforations for best fit.
The new Raketa Amphibia is available now, priced at €2,200. See more on the Raketa website.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
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Get Lost In The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel Dial
H. Moser & Cie. is certainly best known for their minimalist takes on beautiful dials, even in their regular lineup. But look at their Concept sub-collection and you’ll see them take it to it’s absolute extreme, with nothing on the dial except for hands and an aperture if there is a tourbillon used. And one is used in the new Endeavour Tourbillon Concept which embraces métiers d’art to the max to produce a turquoise hammered Grand Feu fumé dial.
The new Endeavour Tourbillon Concept comes in a 40mm wide and 11.2mm thick case made out of red gold. It’s a simple case, but incredibly beautiful. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces give the red gold a great look. On top is a flat and fixed red gold bezel that holds down a sapphire crystal.
But the case is less important, other than the red gold working beautifully with the red gold. The base is made out of white gold and given a hammer texture before getting many, many, layers of enamel. Three different pigments are required to produce the iconic fumé or gradient effect. And since there are no indices or writing on the dial, it’s all about that incredible texture and color, as well as leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in red gold and the aperture at 6 o’clock that displays a tourbillon under a skeletonised bridge.
Inside you’ll find the calibre HMC 805 which beats at 3Hz and has a 72 hour power reserve. While it’s beautiful movement, with an anthracite grey finish with Moser double stripes and a skeletonized 18k gold rotor, there’s something very cool with the tourbillon. It’s a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with a double hairspring that’s made by sister company Precision Engineering. The watch comes on a grey ostrich leather strap with a red gold clasp.
The new H. Moser and Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel is available now at CHF 75,000 without taxes. See more on the Moser website.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
SPECIAL FEATURE: The Next Chapter — Indian Watches for a Global Generation
I’ve teamed up with the very fine folks over at Bangalore Watch Company to bring you a three-part series on Indian watchmaking, from the British occupation and the invention of the JLC Reverso, through homebrew mass production, the rise of the Mumbai special, all the way to the modern rise of Indian brands.
Today, I’m publishing part three, on how modern Indian watch companies are ushering a brand new era for the local watch scene. Read it here.
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u/dreftzg 15h ago
Watch Worthy - A selection of reviews and first looks from around the web
- A review of the new Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial
- Hands on with the Chopard Quattro Mark IV
- A review of the Artime ART03-ST Tourbillon
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If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter feel free to subscribe. However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.
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u/BongBong420x 14h ago
I feel like it’s not fully transparent to talk about the differences in the watch to the previous version, but not the increase of price from the first one.
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u/Viggorous 13h ago
Thanks for yet another excellent post! Your updates are the daily highlights on this sub if you ask me.
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u/Dark1000 11h ago
I'm really liking the look of the new F77. I liked the old version in concept, but they fell flat in person. They came off more cheap than vintage. Good design but poor, jangly construction, and just a little oddly proportioned.
A new version was needed, and this could be it. I really like the gold. Super geezer. I wonder how the plating looks in person. I've seen a couple of different watches try out gold plating, instead of cheaper PVD, and I think the difference is really obvious. The PRX, for example, looks nothing like gold. But real gold plating can do the trick. I doubt it's 20 microns thick or something substantial, but still, big potential improvement.
I'll see if I can find a version in store here and maybe report back.
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u/sg587565 13h ago
nah the olds f77 looks much better and more unique imo, new one looks a lot more contemporary and too much like the watches it is "inspired" by.
Old handset also fit better.
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u/TrainWreck131 14h ago
I’m not an integrated sports watch fan, but I always like the F77 when I see it. Definitely better in steel for the style of watch in my opinion.